Chikankari to Bandhej: A Guide to Traditional Suit Styles Across India

India's rich textile heritage is beautifully reflected in its diverse regional suit styles. From the delicate hand embroidery of Lucknow to the vibrant tie-dye art of Gujarat and Rajasthan, traditional suits are a stunning expression of craftsmanship and culture. Let’s take a tour of some of the most iconic traditional suit styles every ethnic wear lover should know.

1. Chikankari (Uttar Pradesh)

Chikankari suits are known for their subtle elegance. Originating from Lucknow, this hand embroidery style is usually done on light, breezy fabrics like cotton, georgette, and chiffon. The intricate floral motifs make Chikankari perfect for summer wear, office outfits, and even festive occasions when paired with a statement dupatta or jewellery.

2. Bandhej (Rajasthan & Gujarat)

Also known as Bandhani, this vibrant tie-dye technique is a staple in traditional Rajasthani and Gujarati attire. Bandhej suits are characterized by small dot patterns, often in bright shades of red, yellow, green, and blue. These suits are especially popular during festivals like Navratri and Teej and add a pop of color to any wardrobe.

3. Phulkari (Punjab)

Phulkari, meaning 'flower work', is a lively and colorful embroidery style native to Punjab. These suits are adorned with bold floral patterns in vibrant threads, often stitched on cotton or georgette. Phulkari dupattas paired with plain kurtas are a beloved look for weddings and traditional gatherings.

4. Kashida (Kashmir)

Kashida embroidery is a fine blend of nature-inspired motifs—birds, trees, and flowers—in a palette of soft and deep hues. Often seen on wool, silk, or pashmina fabrics, Kashida suits are perfect for colder seasons and exude timeless grace.

5. Kantha (West Bengal)

Kantha work is a running stitch embroidery technique, traditionally done on old saris or dhotis. Modern Kantha suits reflect minimalist charm and artistic detail, often featuring folk tales and natural elements.

Each traditional suit style from India carries the essence of its region, from the colors and fabrics to the techniques and stories behind them. Embracing these regional styles not only enriches your wardrobe but also celebrates the artisans who keep these age-old crafts alive.